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Companions to the White
      Versione Italiana

.... Story the landing in peak to the Cervino
of Bepi Hoffer

Il Monte Bianco- visto dalla vetta del Cervino-Matterhorn

After the 14.07.90 landing on the White Mountain, already ripercorrevo mentally the program that I had intended since the beginning: it was to think about the now "Matterhorn" Cervino 4478metri of rock and  ghiaccio,come a fin of shark that emerges solitary in the immense sea of air of the Valley of Aosta.
One first recognition of mine goes up again to three years ago, along the crest of Hornli, during which I had been being rejected for the ugly time.
Last year I made another recognition, climbing for the crest of the Leo, so I became convinced me that I would be landed on that splendid top. One of the problems of difficulty solution remained that immediately not to fall from the crest after the landing.
For this, together with my companion d' climbed, the guide Giovanni Groaz, studied for a long time the best way to limit this risk and we reached the conclusion that a great net built with rock ropes by 9 mms. You/he/she would have done to our case.
The months passed and meanwhile the dream Cervino had become a fixed nail. Documenting me and studying photo and maps I saw that the only good place to land was on the crest somitale, to the exit  two give crests, that of Hornli and that of the Furggen, for a length of ten meters, where the statue of the there is "Monk", in correspondence of which the crest widens a po, slightly in slope.

The only entry parachute open possible was from East, since in other cases we would be brought to the beamCervinom20.jpg (101757 byte) of the crest or in descent there. I thought that ideal conditions would have been West wind maximum six knots, or from North West. If conditions of North wind were occurred, we would have been able to exploit the dynamics of slant on the wall North, getting a sweeter landing. We would be due to enter 90° from the axle wind, trying to maintain a position windward to the crest and effecting during brakes her/it a landing with "flaire", mostly exposing the parachute to the wind to avoid a side leeway that would be fatal at that time.

To the beginning in this summer, Greater it phones me asking a throwing to organize me on the Rosa Mountain, and in this occasion I mention to the Cervino. Greater it is pilot of jet andCervino_parete_ovest.jpg (38819 byte) sorvolando the mountain, it often admires her/it, and smiling tells me: Seem " me impossible, but where you go me I come" also. We decide to hold the Rosa Mountain as secondary objective. Greater you/he/she is already landed with mè on the Bernina Mountain and on the White Mountain, last year. He is entrusted of to verify the conditions fit meteo to 180 of level, and you/he/she is facilitated in this by his/her job; besides it deals him with to get the necessary permissions, through Geneva, for the control of the aerial space, being responsible what instructor. I deal me after all. To the first ones of July we put there in "stand-by" and on the base of the conditions meteo of every Thursday we would have decided whether to depart or no with the operations. In the meantime it is added to us Goio, an insurer of Courmayer, good parachutist and with a po of alpine experience. Already from Wednesday 28 August, the forecasts seem good, and therefore we fix there the appointment to the hours 19 of Thursday to the airport of Aosta.

 Matterhorn-Cervino visto dal lato alpinistico

sport risks

Il M.Rosa - Il Cervino - Il Gran Comben - visti dalla vetta del M. Bianco

To the "Briefing" they participate, besides us three, the pilot of the airplane (a Cesena 207 envoy to disposition from Sciscere, delegated of the I air Club of Aosta), the pilot of the helicopter Blade of the Elitecnica, Com.te Rossi, Groaz (responsible of peak) and two collaborators employed to the materials and to the connections radio; three men of the television troupe Sirio entrusted by the RAI to document the throwing, would have arrived later the day.
Together we established the program for the next days:
- Friday
Take-off of the helicopter Blade at the 06.30, for the recognition on the point of landing; at the 16.00 we would have predisposed all the materials for the following day, and built the net;
- Saturday and Domenica, the throwing.
The alarm clock is for the hours 05.30 and as soon as out in the room I realize me that the sky is covered for seven eighth to around 3000 feet.
I phone Plateau Rosà and they confirm me: "Absence of wind and serene sky."
It doesn't stay us whether to wait that you get up a po of sun, and to the hours 07,00 of Friday 30 August, the helicopter takes off with on board us three parachutists and Groaz, all equipped ones and with the attire and in material alpine necessary.
The Com.te Rossi looks for a passage among the clouds, and after an uncertain to rotate we succeed in crossing the layer of clouds. The show is enchanting: under of us a white and boundless sea of clouds, from which as small islands the tallest tops emerge, to South, and then the lowland, in which the look loses him.
To West the White Mountain introduces him imposing, northwestern we have the Dent of Herin and the Dent Blanche.
In front
Cervino2mm.jpg (83265 byte) of us we have the Cervino with the South wall all black, impressive, not yet illuminated by the sun. Without the door, in helicopter it starts to be cold, and in distance I perceive the our according to objective: also it is still dark and the game of lights and shades it creates an anxious atmosphere.

I fear to have exaggerated in to decide to land on top of the Cervino. And also the Rosa, near the hut Margherita, also being ampler, seen from it doesn't encourage a lot here me. I cervinosudm2.jpg (88226 byte)wondered me to thing you/they were thinking the others two, and I tried to reassure me that all more al I would not be landed in top.

We started to glimpse the East wall, all sunny, and then the impressive slide of the wall North, completely innevata. Monte Cervino-Matterhorn-parete nord.jpg (99247 byte)

The moral one starts to climb, I see the places again where I/you/they have climbed, the you camp out and finally the crest sommitale with some mountain climber in top. I see the point of landing: I like it. I am sure to make her/it! I look at the others and I gather in their expression my same safety. The helicopter still makes some turn. None of us would feel like going down; but the pilot is very tense and so we decide immediately to reenter in the airport. We are enthusiastic, excited and confident. Only the pilot is seemed me a po incerto…Mah, will see tomorrow!

Returning, sorvoliamo the peak of the Dent of Herin, passes on the vertical one some shelter Aosta and therefore we try to reenter in the airport, but the clouds force us to a landing in an alpeggio near a malga, where we have an abundant breakfast with polenta and good cans and cheese. After three hours it is possible to take off. In the Giovanni, Andrew and I, begin late afternoon, to build the net of 20m xes 20, to put in top.
Meanwhile Greater it goes to talk to the pilot of the helicopter (he was the most proper person, you/they had discovered to have friends in common); what has to tell him is not very "nice": "Or you unload the three that they serve as base in top, as of accord, or we don't pay you to us." We decide then to anticipate the throwing of mezz'ora, in how much the first ropes arrive in top, climbing from the crest of Hòrnli, toward the 07.00; therefore you/he/she would have been opportune to land toward the 06.30.Groaz, with the helicopter it would be due to depart before, to predispose all the equipments (anemometer, smoke, nets and nails). This material would have been able us to also use the case in which we had been forced to return climbing.
When Greater he/she returns in the airport and he/she sees the net, it is really convinced: "With this we don't have problems anymore." Goio introduces him to the briefing of the evening; it is very prepared and brave, it doesn't have therefore problems, and then it trusts us. A light supper, and then immediately in bed. I was calm, I felt me sure. The following day certainly waited us for an impressive throwing, but by now we were all there and he was not able certain to throw back; and then I told me that to 100m of quota above the top I would have appraised my position, and in every case, with a light correction, I would still have had four or five seconds to go away. This way I met again me to memory the streets of escape, hypothesizing her various directions of the wind. I knew that if you/he/she had blown from North, and finding me above the top I/you was directed me to South I would have entered the zone leeward: under these conditions, to 4000 meters a very greater fall is had in comparison to the advancement. This constituted a serious problem, since the mountain has a pyramidal form, to the base it widens, and you/he/she would have been easy to remain trapped on some rocky spur or paretina, and to roll toward valley. I thought that if someone of us had had to land to valley, you/he/she would have remained "from dogs" the other ones would not even have had the complete satisfaction of the succeeded throwing and the common finishing line succeeded together.
But a consideration allows me to take sleep: very hardly conditions will be perfect, and therefore it is still everything to see. The alarm clock rings at 04.30 o'clock, but I was already awake. Is go suffered on the balcony of my room and I look at the sky. And' everything serene and I immediately feel me tense, I don't feel like anymore smiling to think about something different of it from what I have to do. In the other rooms I feel the other ones get ready himself/herself/themselves. I am all one po extended. Also another bridge radio seems me you create a stress in more, and so I agree me with Groaz that just taken off by the base of the helicopter, makes a passage, so that it stuffed to feel the noise: us thirty minutes later we will take off.

They depart therefore the two groups: the first one with the guide, a help guide and a cameraman for the top; the second group will make base near a dike in the proximities of the Cervino and when we will pass with the airplane and we would be next to the throwing, we will call them and them, already embarked in helicopter, they will climb for effecting the resumptions TV and the photos.

With Goio and Greater we make a rapids breakfast and we begin therefore immediately the exercises of respiraton: a hour of earth is advisable oxygenation, before operating to 6000 meters. We had predisposed the day before, a cylinder of oxygen with three nozzles, following special charts and preparing us the whole material in order, apiece of us: don't find anything during the take-off you/he/she would have been disagreeable.

I finally feel the elicotte4ro, it has thirty minutes of delay, and this creates me not little uneasiness: we will find mountain climber in peak, and also the sun will be taller. The helicopter is taken off to the dark, I think about those that are on board: to Groaz, that doesn't have a lot of liking for the helicopters, and that a few minutes before departing have told me: "I do only it for you." He is not a parachutist but a mountain climber with her "Á." capital, and it is a worried po; some years ago has done Northerly the of the Cervino in rope with his/her wife and you/he/she has suffered a storm going out of it uninjured.
It was to sling him and over what is normally necessary now, we had in a marsupium pouch a bomboletta of oxygen of the duration of eight minutes, that had to be well protected so that to avoid his/her opening for some abrupt movement; I settle me the elastic one that holds in nozzle, I slip me the helmet.

We immediately start there toward the airplane, where three bombolettes are deposited with suitable erogatori, that regulates the pressure of the oxygen in base to the quota. The pilot is already on board, you/he/she has the third degree, but you/he/she has gotten from few the qualification to the throwing parachutists. Let's tell him that however it is a normal throwing even if the concentration will be very superior.

We take off at 06.20 o'clock and I remember that the year before to the same time we were taking off for the top of the White; the procedures repeat him with the same order, the emotion however it is not the same one, we are now more experts in this kind of things and the company to the succession it is less thick than friends. Last year had been beautiful indeed, everything was developed in a climate of great friendship, and to make the things with whom want you it gives greater satisfaction.
We are
L'alba sul M. Cervino. Sul M. Rosa Il sole fa capolino.jpg (60405 byte) by now to three thousand meters quota, and I immediately connect me with Groaz, through a portable radio, to ask his conditions meteo. The wind comes from North six knots. Groaz is late a po with the position of the net. We remain above the valley to take quota, trying not to disturb anybody, sees the time. Around the show is grandiose, and the sky is clear and allows us to look at a follow him continuous of absorbed valleys in a light haze, that reflects the sun in controluce. The tallest tops detach stately, giving a sense of depth of field to the whole environment. Greater with the portable radio, on the aeronautical frequency, it is in contact with the earth helicopter, ready to decollare,mentre the pilot contacts Geneva I check for the confirmation of the free aerial space.

I ask to the pilot to pass to few meters from the top, so that to be able to check the altimeters: I have one sets of it on the absolute quota (QNH) and one who I try to reset to level of the top, also being in airplane (QFE), also knowing that This system doesn't guarantee a great precision. We continue to time to rotate and to take, in top there is some difficulties to systematize well the net. As soon as it spends the time, I feel the need of oxygen to grow: the tension stà climbing and I apologize me with the pilot for the commands a lot you bream that the stòs imparting; he understands that it is a fashion to unload the tension.

The last, of a series of smoke that turn on in peak to show us the direction of the wind, it allows me to understand that the things are changing: the smoke hardly gets up above the top of 100m, it goes to West direction. I ask the others if you/they have observed this change and I say to Greater to make to depart The helicopter. I communicate to Graz that net or no, in ten minutes jump! To the pilot I ask to bring us to quota throwing. To 6000 ms. I ask to Greater where the helicopter is, and he/she answers me that it is in the zone hello for the resumptions to the same quota of the top, but he/she doesn't want to climb over. I think, with disappointment, that we had given really a cylinder for the pilot, that however you/he/she had assured that you/he/she would not have served him. I had also asked him if before the day had had problems of governability, since the only point of reference is the horizon, besides very great and to submit him to the tools can create difficulty. Everything was burdened from the fact that the helicopter was a Llama, and that the pilot had the tendency to bother us with the air produced by the shovels.  .jpg (54041 byte)
However to that point the resumptions didn't have any importance anymore, and I had asked the position of the helicopter not to find him/it to us in tail or to a lower quota during the throwing. I ask a correction of 90° and the airplane to the pilot it brings him on the vertical one of Plateau Rosà, in south direction, then 90° to the right, and, immediately later, the vertical one of Cervinia, others 90° to the right.
"We enter! ", cry to the others. Greater it is on the door to give the last correction on the vertical one of the top with the axle of the wind, but it is a disorientated po, he/she doesn't see the top that is under of us. "You make as before another turn! " and the pilot exactly performs the manoeuvre; you/he/she is from mezzora that he doesn't speak anymore.
I am not afraid, I don't think about the landing in top and even to the show seen by quassù, I suffer to activate the bomboletta an instant before the throwing, and to do so that you don't clog him something. We are again on the vertical, and Greater one it gives a light correction of 20° East, and then "motor" (Word used before the throwing to tell the pilot to slow down the airplane), but in this case we exploit the speed of the airplane for a best opening of the parachute, sees the rarefazione of the air to this quota.

Goio jumps for first, I activate the bomboletta, I feel the oxygen go out of the nozzle and definite jump without emotions as an automaton. Under of me, the slide of the wall North as I had imagined him/it; I open the parachute after five seconds. I bring me above the top, but to that quota the feeling is not had from what it departs draughts the wind, really because the references orograficis are too much distant: I have the feeling to be dwarfish, in the middle of the density of that fluid, and distant from the horizon that trace a great continuous line, as between the sea and the sky.
I am a stunned po, as suddenly deconcentrato. I have new information to elaborate. I see very more aloft than me Greater, moved a lot in there, but then I realize me that I am me to be in a very side position, and immediately I put to fire the situation. I bring me sopravento toward East: it is precisely the contrary one of as I would do in a normal competition of precision, and that is on the end I will have to enter with the wind tail.  
cervinob1mn.jpg (102017 byte)
Cervinom11.jpg (69803 byte)I/you/they are hypnotized by the top, I strive me to look around me to mentally photograph these rare images, but to that quota the time flies and I starts to observe Goio that is found to around 300m. under of me: I will draw precious considerations from his/her manoeuvres.
We had prepared that he would have had to trace the streets of escape without landing in top, if you/he/she was not found in good position. It was his/her first experience in mountain, even if the experience in this case counts little. In this case it needs to land on the definite point, and for this Goio it doesn't have problems being a champion of precision. I observe him/it anchor, and I see that it lands in top, two meters behind of him the jump of the East wall.
Verso la vetta.jpg (143398 byte) They are to three hundred meters and I feel me to invade from a great energy, that makes me calm; I don't mistake anything in my accruals, that do him as more and more narrow in an ideal cone to whose apex stà the landing. I feel the wind that tries to push me, I put me to the turned beam to South, and I look at the target on the right. They are instants, I know' not to be able to turn neither an instant before, neither an instant I feel too much later me above, to the time I still lengthen a po toward South. I have the head turned entirely, with the commands to mean brake, and I decide to turn. Si atterra in vetta entrando dalla est M.Cervino4478m.jpg (141868 byte) All very instinctively happens. The peak stà climbing rapidissimamente toward mè, they are to one hundred meters and I feel not to be wrong; After a fraction of according to I see with precision where I go to end: on a group of four climbers, sat on top of to rest.  You/they are not looking me, cry to attract their attention and aspect one reaction of theirs. They are found really in the select place to land, and they don'Il M.Rosa fa da sfondo al primo atterraggio con il paracadute in vetta al M. Cervino.jpg (113948 byte)t even move him for an instant, even on application of Groaz. Instinctively I loosen a po braked her/it, to fall two or three meters longer, but it increases the speed, the eyes me they open wide him, I get ready me to the impact. I feel me to the sure one above a forced passage; from a side the goes down Northerly, and to the left half meter falls the vertical jump of the South one, I see the spike of rock against which I soon will encounter me.
The clash is violent, rest there as I/you had become an everything one with the mountain, suddenly calm, free, without more fixed nails and fears to hurt me. I don't have to organize more nothing. The throwing was not ended yet: I had seen to land Goio a po "short", but well; "there is still now you Increase", I told me, and it was as I felt him/it arrive, pigeato as I was on the rock, but I could not see him/it. Greater it lands on the frozen snow of the wall North, on the net of rope, its red parachute gets flabby to a meter in side to me. I try to lift to grab him/it to me, but the feet don't hold up me. I find a grip and I drag along me toward his/her parachute. I see other hands that grab him/it, and Greater seized to the ropes, on top of the Northerly of the Cevino.

Bepi Hoffer